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(“Stage” isn’t just a cliché here, since clothing is the costume of the performance of gender.) Women like Gertrude Stein, Romaine Brooks, Frida Kahlo, Radclyffe Hall, Djuna Barnes, Vita Sackville-West, H.D., and others took all it a step further than “tom boys” of an earlier era, like Willa (“Willie”) Cather, who liked to wear trousers and a Civil War cap when young

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“It takes about five hours for the background to go through hair, makeup and wardrobe,” she notes

with a little room to spare in the chest and neck.